Why Wine Is Such a Natural Partner for Kanburi, January's Great Winter Delicacy

When it comes to January, one ingredient stands above all others: kanburi, the cold-season yellowtail.
Firmed up by the chill of the winter sea and richly marbled with fat, kanburi — whether served as sashimi or grilled — is one of the defining tastes of the Japanese winter table.

There is one question we hear again and again:
"What sort of wine actually works with such a rich, oily fish?"
It is a fair question.

And the answer is that it depends almost entirely on how you choose the wine.

The key is fat meeting acidity

The joy of kanburi lies in its concentrated fat and deep savoury flavour.
What carries that richness away and leaves the finish clean is a white wine with real acidity.

Take Sancerre Blanc from France's Loire Valley.
Its citrus and herbal nuances, framed by taut, driving acidity, cut straight through the fat of the fish and leave a finish of surprising lightness. Served with sashimi, or with the fish simply salted and grilled, it is close to an ideal match.

▶ Our recommendation

Sancerre Prémices Blanc 2023, Domaine Pierre Morin

Sauvignon Blanc comes in many guises, but rather than the overtly herbaceous, cut-grass style, what you want here is the sharper profile that comes from limestone soils — and, better still, that faint saline nuance. That is precisely why Sancerre is the best choice.

For dishes finished with teriyaki or a sweet-savoury glaze, on the other hand, a lighter red is well worth considering.
Skip the heavy, oak-driven bottles and reach instead for something fruit-forward — a Pinot Noir, for instance — which sits beautifully alongside the sweetness of soy and mirin.

With Japanese food, the wine should never shout

When a dish is built on an ingredient as characterful as kanburi,
it matters that the wine does not try to steal the leading role.

Rather than flamboyance, look for:
・acidity
・a sense of minerality
・fruit with clarity and transparency

Wines built on these qualities are the ones that fall naturally into step with Japanese cuisine.

▶ Our recommendation

Pinot Noir 2023, Domaine David Moret

Among Burgundy's Pinots Noirs, a wine with generous fruit and a touch of oak will marry with a sweet-savoury teriyaki glaze far more happily than a pale, high-acid style.

Within Burgundy, the reds of the Côte de Beaune are the pick of the bunch here.

Set aside the old assumption that fish belongs with sake, just for an evening,
and you will almost certainly discover a whole new pleasure in kanburi and wine together.

Do give the pairing a try.